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PRATOLA'S HISTORIC CENTRE AND ITS SCENIC SURROUNDING Corriere Peligno/Gente Italica copyright© by Sestino Casasanta Many of the tourists who go to Abruzzo every year pass through the Peligna Valley on the road SS n.17, starting from Popoli heading off towards Sulmona, where halfway on the right side appears almost unforeseeable and compact, Pratola Peligna; with the red roof tops, the churches and their bell towers, the façade of the "signorili" palaces, and the surrounding vineyards. This compact view does not give a true assessment of the town, and therefore may be seen by some as deceptive. By going through Pratola's inner part and by penetrating through its narrow alleys, the town reveals its incoherent picturesque characteristics; fragmented and variable, similar to a series of many scenarios which continuously are changing in appearance. Like many Italian towns, Pratola's old section is huddled up on a hill, between the "Piazza Garibaldi" and the "Piazzetta di S. Pietro Celestino". The rest of the old establishment stretches into surrounding slopes making it necessary to have a multitude of streets (ruelle) made up of steps. These characteristic streets are interrupted, every so often, by minuscule landings where the entrance of houses are located. Also these landings (piazzette) are used as gathering places for the housewives attending to their domestic work. Some of these narrow streets have curious names, probably ancient, like "Chiassuolo per la Fontana"; this lane leads to an old fountain that is still in use. Altogether, these landings, lanes and staircase streets live in a silent, absorbed atmosphere that knows of the past. On the walls of the old buildings is the hard patina of the time, which gives a sensation in the air of the flutter of history, not the clamorous history that finds spaces in the books. Instead, the old walls portray the silence and calmness of so many generations of human creatures who conduct their lives here, interweaving their dreams, suffering the delusions and the pains of the daily fatigue. Naturally, there are no automobile traffic sounds, no hurried townfolks (Pratolani), and no other noises, except for the voices of housewives that talk amongst themselves and the happy screeches of the children playing. The tourist who is routed toward these characteristic places gets the impression of infringing upon the privacy of the townfolks. As the walls of the ancient houses are adjoined together they have the sensitivity like eyes and ears, one realize the simple domestic life that comes out from the houses and flashes into the streets and imposes to the strangers that is inappropriate to make unnecessary noise and to throw indiscreet glances through the windows and through the doors. Worth seeing: The church of "S. Pietro Celestino" (XV. century) rises to the centre of the old Pratula's castle (Entro la terra). It has been said that the Saint celebrated masses here. The church later was dedicated to honour the hermit Peter of Morrone (later became Pope Celestine V), whose hermitage on the slopes of the Mount Morrone is visible from Pratola; The "Cappella delle Sette Marie e della Pietà", two adjoined small chapels dated 1540: considered a National Monument. In the interiors are a valuable group of sculptures in terracotta known as "Il Sepolcro" (XV. century) and some fine frescoes; the Sanctuary of the "Madonna della Libera" (Our Lady of the Freedom) rises west of the historic centre. The first chapel to hold the Sacred Images of the Virgin, was built in the year 1540, and was restaured in 1587. Almost three centuries later, to be exact, in the year 1855 by the fervent desire of Pratola's entire population an under the supervision of many artists and local artisans, a new magnificent and artistic Temple was built in order to accommodate the evergrowing pilgrimages from every part of central Italy. Every year, on the first Friday, Saturday and Sunday in the month of May, a celebration takes place to honour the "Madonna della Libera". This is the grandest and the most important religious feast for the people of Pratola and the Peligna Valley. For this occasion many of the "Pratolani" that live far away will either return, or are assailed by a tormenting desire to return. Pratola Peligna, surrounded by fertile hills and large plains is a beauty of nature with a reposeful vagueness. The green of the fields and of the woods removes every wild roughness to the sharply Mount "Morrone", which impends and towers above the eastern side of the town. At the foot of the above mountain, on the top of a spur, are still standing a few walls of Orsa (Ursa), a mediaeval fortress (wrongly called by some townsfolk: "Pratola Vecchia"), where the devastating opera of the time has passed. Also, high above and behind the Mount "Morrone" one can observe the massif of the Majella (2.795 m.). This majestic, rugged and at the same time, appealing mountain that is without an equal, is the most important of the whole central Appennine chain, naturally after the Gran Sasso d'Italia (2.914 m.). In the lower plains of Pratola, flows the "Sagittario" (ancient Fluturnum); the foamy river, where nearby it meets the waters of "La Forma"; the creek that put the ancient Celestine Flour Mill in motion (the white mill that still exists), but inactive. The Celestine coat of arms is visible above the entrance arches. Here for many centuries the "Pratolani" were required to give part of their flour and other products from the land to the monks of the Morronese Abbey. At each side of the town, up in the mountains and to the east are the villages of Roccacasale, and Prezza to the west. Those two villages distinguish themselves for their whitish, agglomerate residences, clinging and emerging from the rocks and the green vegetation of the woods. Pratola Peligna: a solitary town, with it's own secret, afraid of being spoiled by the progress. Here palpitates the ancient Abruzzo, the Morronese Abbey, the generous and delicious wines, the hardworking farmers (contadini), and the craftsmen which even today, remain intact to the traditions of the past. As we leave Pratola behind, we take with us the image of the beautiful panorama of the surrounding mountains, the image of the religious temples, the image of the silent narrow streets of the old establishment whose look has remained unaltered throughout the many centuries of existence. |
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